Cape Town is most known for the beauty that lies in its beaches, its mountains, and its wineries. It truly is an incredibly beautiful city, from the top of Table Mountain to the tip of the Cape of Good Hope. But what struck me so much about Cape Town was the vast history of the city. Being the oldest city in the country, I expected there to be a lot of museums and memorials to significant individuals and events that have taken place there over the past centuries, but Cape Town’s historical legacy still took my breath away.
I was shocked to be standing inside the Old National Assembly chamber in Parliament, where every single piece of apartheid legislation was passed as this was where the National Party ruled the country from. So much hatred, discrimination, and racism in one room. But in this same room, opposite where the ruling National Party sat, was the seat where Helen Suzman courageously debated each of those pieces of legislation and made sure her voice was going to be heard in the opposition. Right down the hall, in the new National Assembly chamber, a completely different feeling came across as this is where F.W. de Klerk announced in February 1990 that not only were the African National Congress (ANC) and other political organizations legalized again, but that Nelson Mandela would be released from prison after 27 years. This is also the same chamber where Mandela addressed the Parliament for the first time as President in 1990.
In the District Six Museum, I got to meet Joe Schaffers and Noor Ebrahim, two gentlemen who were former residents of District Six, which was a community in Cape Town that consisted of Indians, Coloureds, Africans, Muslims, Christians, Jews, and Hindus. It was this diversity which was seen as a threat to the apartheid government, so they declared it a “white area” in 1966. This meant every single resident was served with an eviction notice and they were forcibly removed to ethnically-specific areas in nearby townships. This was ethnic cleansing at its most obvious. Fifty-thousand people were forcibly removed from District Six, including Joe Schaffers and Noor Ebrahim. District Six was then demolished by the government in the very same way that other communities, like Sophiatown, were. Getting to hear the personal stories of people like Joe and Noor who experienced it firsthand was a very powerful experience and gave me a much better understanding of the forced removals and their true impact on the people.
The Cape Town Holocaust Center provided the history of Nazism and the Holocaust, but it was through the lens of the country that had a movement that was comparable in many aspects to Nazism — apartheid. The museum was clear in saying that while there were some major similarities, apartheid was not genocidal in intent or in effect. But the similarities are shocking. Both were ardent nationalists fervently opposed to communism and liberalism. Both believed strongly in racial purity. Both used symbols to identify “others,” passes in South Africa and the Star of David in Nazi Germany. Both stripped the citizenship of the “others” in their countries. Both strictly enforced legislation that included anti-semitism, ethnic cleansing, creation of ghettos, prohibition of interracial sex and marriage. Both were hyper-militarized states and the church was complicit in trying to justify both ideologies (Dutch Reformed Church in South Africa and the Lutheran and Catholic Church in Nazi Germany). Apartheid was a racist, anti-Semitic, fascist ideology, which is exactly what Nazism was. There are major differences in terms of the creation of extermination camps and the genocide of the Holocaust, but in terms of the ideologies, the similarities cannot be ignored. The Jewish Museum next door also provided an interesting history of the Jewish population in South Africa. Jews started coming to South Africa in the early 1800s once the British had controlled the Cape, and by 1936 there were about 90,000 Jews in South Africa. Some of the most prominent white members of the anti-apartheid in South Africa were Jews, including Helen Suzman, Dennis Goldberg, Albie Sachs, Harold Wolpe, and Johnny Clegg. The Jewish contribution to the anti-apartheid movement is marginalized, and this museum tried to shed some light on the important role these individuals played in opposing apartheid.
The Iziko Slave Lodge highlighted the role of slavery in South Africa’s history. Started by the Dutch East India Company in the late 17th century, slavery to South Africa was not part of the Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade. In South Africa, the Dutch brought slaves in from other African nations in southern and East Africa, especially Madagascar and Mozambique, as well as from the Indian Ocean region, including India, Sri Lanka, and Indonesia. Slave auctions took place throughout Cape Town, with one of the most prominent spots being right outside of this museum. In the late 1700s, there were more slaves than colonists in the Cape. This all ended when the British outlawed the slave trade in 1807, and since they controlled the Cape by then, that meant slavery was outlawed eventually. But it was from this that South Africa has such a richly diverse population of races, ethnicities, and religions.
Robben Island, a short 30-minute ferry ride away from Cape Town, was one of the world’s most well-known prisons. In one long hallway of small, cramped cells, some of the greatest minds and leaders in the country languished for decades. They broke rocks, labored in the lime quarry, and gather seaweed on a daily basis merely because they opposed apartheid. Political prisoners like Walter Sisulu, Govan Mbeki, Ahmed Kathrada, Robert Sobukwe, and Nelson Mandela. This island was, for me, a combination of sadness and inspiration; sadness to be standing in a place where so many years were lost merely for standing up for equality and democracy; inspiration because it is inconceivable how someone like Mandela could have been locked away for so long and still come out of prison preaching negotiations and reconciliation.
And lastly, the history and vibrancy of the townships of Langa and Gugulethu were incredible. Both played important roles in the struggle, as Langa also took part in the March 21, 1960 anti-pass civil disobedience, just like Sharpeville and many other areas, and just like Sharpeville, the police opened fire on the protestors in Langa, killing 6 innocent people on that day. Also in Langa, in 1976, just weeks after students in Soweto rose up, students in Langa protested against an unequal education system, and just like in Soweto the police opened fire on the students. Nearby Gugulethu is famously remembered for the Gugulethu 7, which were 7 young men who were mercilessly shot down in the township in 1986. Just a few blocks away from the Gugulethu 7 Memorial is the memorial to Amy Biehl, an American university student who was in South Africa on a Fulbright scholarship when she was brutally murdered in 1993. The cruel irony is that Amy Biehl was a dedicated anti-apartheid activist and had been working in the townships, but her attackers merely saw a white woman and took out their anger and frustration on her. Langa and Gugulethu are full of life and energy today, and from the people to the music to the sheep livers and charred sheep heads cooking on the side of the street, I saw a whole new side to Cape Town that I loved.
Cape Town had me in awe, of course for its obvious beauty, but also for its rich history that the city seemed to be just oozing with. From Langa to Robben Island, from Parliament to District Six, Cape Town is a wildly diverse area that is amazing.
Cheers to Cape Town!

with Joe Schaffers and Noor Ebrahim, both former residents of District Six

Robben Island - former maximum security prison